ty_houston
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Posts posted by ty_houston
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I'm trying to figure out which sub to put in my blazer. I'll be running (2) subs, 18s most likely.
I had been running 15" Havocs and they're loud and sound great but its not loud enough.
I've been wanting to run Fi BLs for a long time but it's quite a few bucks. Optionally, I could recone my Havocs to 18s with upgraded soft parts and coils (8-layer alum) for half the price of the BLs. I have a feeling they still wouldn't be nearly as loud as the BLs however.
What would you run run in my situation? Amp is a SAZ-3000D at 0.5 ohm DCR on strong electrical. I want to make a decision soon, I'm fiending for bass.
Get the mayhems, they handle about twice as much power as the havocs, get louder and sound good doing it.
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You know your addicted to car audio if this is the first site you check BEFORE ANYTHING
what he said
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I feel your pain bro...in the process of changing my system for the 3rd time in a little less than a year..shit is addictive, this is it for me this time, I refuse to lose the back seat in my h2
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I was going to "float it" off the back of my box which the back is 1.5" thick... but I'll see if i can find some where else
off the back should be fine, especially if its 1.5 inches thick, good luck
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These are not rated to perform @ 1ohm, you need to have it modded to work below 2ohms, and you need a strong, strong electrical system for it to perform well, even with a strong electrical not a guarantee that it won't go up in smoke. I would burb @ 1ohm but I wouldn't run it daily at 1ohm, even if it was modded. It's sort of a high risk, low reward running it @ 1ohm, what you gain in watts is not worth what you give up in reliability.
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Do you think my electrical will be able to hold one okay? (see sig)
You should be fine, its designed to perform well on low voltage..ie 12.5 volts and up, nasty ass amps. Just be careful where you mount it, DD z series amps don't like vibration, therefore try not to mount it directly to your enclosure. The ddz1 first gen was notorious for the legs on the fets breaking off due to vibration. The design on the z2 and z2lv is a little stronger, so its harder for the fets to break, but it still happens..other than that they are pretty much bullet proof...go for it, you won't be disappointed!
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in your sig it says the wall is out, what kind of enclosure you running now? subs up, aero ports to the back?
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nice score bro, what frequency does that song peak at? 152 on music is at the least a 153 plus on a burb
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haven't been around in a while but is there a link to rays build?
http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/ind...c=15678&hl=
link to rays build i think
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my best average in a legal bassrace is 157.2
since the switch and issues i have only gotten a 55.4 average.
driver window down is a whole other ball game.
The caddy puts the hummer to shame on the lows, just a different type of sound, that thing just turns your body to jello.
Our best "burp's" in the pass kick is very close to the same.
Caddy was a 60.1 and the hummer was a 60.5
Both vehicle seem to meter close to the same, but the caddy is just on a whole other level with the killer lows.
I fuckin love it, might just have to make another trip up to take another seat.
cant stop talking bout it today.
What a ride.
Thanks again Steve
Ray, why did you switch from re to dc, just curious and does your h2 have hydrolics or are those air shocks? Awesome ride..now we just need to see some vids of Chris's Hummer with mla
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West Coast guys are so lucky! Think about , a hummer and an escalade different set ups but both loud as hell! and they can be driven daily...thanks for the vids Steve, and thanks for sharing Ray. Both rides look good and sound even better!!
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Ehhh why did they discontinue the Z2LV? I was gonna get 2 of them later this year
Maybe it'll have to be 4 SAZ-3500D's now...There suppose to come out with a new line...I gues stetsom and sound digital are making dd step up! I'm gonna roll with the single z2 for now and just keep lookin for anotehr z2..thanks for all of you guys imput..greatly appreciated!
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Just recently, that is the newer 8800wrms+ amp he has that he just recently bought. Not sure what he paid for it, but matt didnt use his long at all, and his asking price is a few hundo above cost. very good price. He a pretty striaght up guy, I never bought from him but he is a local comptitior in my state. He had a bunch of ab 500.1s for sale and 2 700.1s I think too.
He bought it from Ray Farmer back in November(the z2lv)
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Also, What z2 amp do you have? Becasue theres 3 different models.
Theres a older z2 that came out with the z1, the z1 was a low volt model for 12v setups, the z2 was a 16 volt model for 18v setups.
Then you have the newer z2's that recently went out of production. You have the z2lv(low volt) and the z2hv(high volt)
The one that makes the most power (8800+wrms @ 1 ohm) is the dd z2lv (recently discontinued).
When did they stop making the z2lv? There is one for sale on ca.com..bumpin buick he wants $1500 for it.
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x2
Depending on what model it actually is ill buy it from you tuesday. But being used the most id pay is 800$ + shipping for it.
Its the original z2 not the lv or hv..I wish it was the z2lv
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I would not strap a AB 700.1 with a DD Z2
The same boards dont mean much. Im pretty sure both amps come from different build houses (since I believe dd amps are built in europe now), and both amps are going to have different parts with different tolerences on the parts.
Thanks for the input, so I should just keep looking for a z2? or I could have each amp run 3 subs and just gain match them? each amp would be seeing 1.34 ohms
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Just need to get some feedback. I currently have 4 dmx 15's driven by a ddz2. I had a chance to get another z2 put I hesitated and it was sold. I have a chance to get an American bass 700.1. I have two more dmx 15's on the way. I want to wall my h2 with 6 15's. With 2 z2's it was easy cause they are strappable. The 700.1 and the z2 share the same board. The 700.1 is strappable, also. Is this a bad idea? Should I try it or just keep looking for another z2? Any advice would be greatly appreciated thanks
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Lil Jon "push that n***a" 45hz
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I see what ur talkin ab now.. but mine dont hav that..idk wtf to do now besides order a maxxlink. Preciate the help man!!
That's a misprint on their website. The hk10k can be strapped and has the master/slave parallel switch,but the hk4000d doesn't.
you may need to get a maxi link to strap them
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Man, if I'm reading that receipt right all they did was replace 1 C1047 which certainly isn't a $45 part... but hey that could just be a stock code for something else...
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Vibration, that is one reason that would cause the 1st gen z1 to fail. Whatever you do, do not mount it on the sub box. i've known a few people who's boards have cracked from vibration..your electrical sounds ok..and I wouldn't run it below 1 ohm for daily. I love dd amps..they do more than rated power and normally are pretty reliable..good luck, you should be happy!
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I don't know if it's true or not but the 7k2d and 10k are done and the 9k2d replaced both of them. And now the 14k. I'm going to see how true this is and if that's the case I'm going to try and price the remaining 7k2d for hella cheap to move them. We'll see?
Damn Stetsom ain't playin!
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the belt at my alternator slips so much when i turn it up and it chirps at idle, ive got an EA 200amp alt
Nice job on the build bro!..that box looks awesome!
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I'm running (2) 15" AA Havocs, which are similar to fully loaded Fi Q's. They sound great, get low, and pretty loud too. (metering around 145 dB)
Anyway it's not loud enough for me of course, so I'm looking at all my options and the BTL has caught my eye, particularly after seeing some of its amazing efficiency numbers compared to my subs. It sounds like these BTL's would convert a LOT more of my electrical (amplifier) power into sound power, though I don't know at what SQ expense.
I use my system for music listening, so I need to be loud along a fairly wide bandwidth. I know this is mostly determined by the enclosure, but switching to BTLs is gonna sound different no matter what, and I'm trying to find out what that is, and will it still sound good enough for music? (rock, alternative, indie stuffs)
If BTL's are gonna sound mechanical and rough I'll say skip it and just add more of my current 15's.
What about the AA mayhem's? Same as a Btl fully loaded.
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Maybe it'll have to be 4 SAZ-3500D's now...
SPL and SQ
in Subwoofers / Enclosures
Posted · Edited by ty_houston
I'm gonna assume you mean the difference between an spl sub and a sq sub...most sq subs sound better on music and have a lower fs(free air resonance), they require less power(usually)..some examples of sq subs would be an fi q, re mx, re xxx...alot of it comes down to install and tuning..I run massive dmx's witch are generally considered spl subs, but I have them in a ported box that's tuned low and they actually sound pretty good on music. They are what I would call a sql sub. A true spl sub ie: rd audio superheavy weight, re mt, handle massive amounts of power and normally require higher tuned enclosures( 60 plus hz ). They generally sound like shit on music(because of the higher tuning), and can take gobbs of power in short bursts(for burbing). This is just my opinion, like I said alot of it(90%) comes down to install and tuning.