Joe X

You treated OM-1 manual like it wasn't there, you will need to have a mini screwdriver available for the next step.

You don't need those "bridging" wires, the terminals in the amp already have those connections made inside. Those two set of speaker terminals are one and the same because it's a monoblock. Bridging a monoblock involves a second amplifier.

If it there are no issues for a week you can blame the taramps, the turn on pop should be no issue and it can be fixed with a turn on delay circuit but I would focus on getting another 8k amp. I would prefer a refund from Taramps rather than a replacement. Having a third time failure would be sickening to me.

I bet seats down in a trunk car is louder than seats up but never believe me or anyone else try it both ways yourself What definitely can make you louder is firing forward and sealing off the trunk but effectively sealing off the trunk is a difficult job.

The easier tool to use and understand is the SMD DD-1 which you can get here: https://wccaraudio.com/smd-distortion-detector-dd-1/ The portable scope can be less expensive but you need much more knowledge to use it so in your situation I would recommend the DD-1 mentioned above. Still I can provide a link to a portable scope if you want.

DS440X4 has an input sensitivity 250mV to 4v depending on how the gain knob is set, don't know if you tried to change that or not. Taramps knobs are known not to work as specified anyways.

Tu setup the amps gains for optimal output you want to get a SMD DD-1 or a portable scope both easily available, get whichever tool you feel more comfortable with.

The port area you are planning on is too large and that is the reason you are getting such a long port, you need 4 to 4.5 square inches of port area per sub, WinISD should be able to show low port speed, tuning needs to be lower subs cover 20-55Hz range in most systems, for these small subs, you should tune 38-40Hz but not higher.

That enclosure looks pretty, not sure if that many round ports is going to be efficient or not. Regarding the amps, you are OK running each sub at 2 ohm, each sub should be getting close to 2000W. The setup of the amps is critical because the box is a common chamber type so you amps need to be GAIN MATCHED for best performance in addition to the normal gain settings procedure which needs to be done with a DD-1 or a scope, make sure you got that right. Also you should have enough electrical for 4-5K power, batteries, alternator, big 3, you don't specify what is your electrical. Lastly the cap seems to be a little one, probably is not going to make a big difference fi you use it.

If the head unit is playing the radio you might get unexpected behavior from the DD-1, play the tones provided and see what it does. Try to listen in what you are sending to the dd-1 to see if there is noise or whatever.

It's like two different enclosures sharing the port, since the port is being shared it needs a port area 4 times as large as 1 sub would need. So if 1 sub needs 4.5 square inches, the shared port enclosure would need 18 square inches. Since the chambers are not shared each chamber is twice the volume as one sub would need.

Just install some other amp now that you have checked your system, if that amp works fine for a few days return the taramps for a refund.

Yes, also opening up your rear deck and also your box should leave space on top or sides to help sound pressure come inside the car cabin.

Subs up in a trunk car leads to excessive , hard to control rattling, port through the ski hole leads to you listening mostly the port. For your vehicle, posts / subs back and opening up the rear deck should be best, still your own tests will tell you what you prefer.

False claim REW has no place in box modeling or layout at all, is strictly for measuring real world data.

Those big boss amps are supposed to have many protection systems in place, hard to believe that something is fooling them all, likely it blew on it's own. Try testing with some other amp to be sure everything else in your system is as supposed to be. I have read about a couple of cases where the third amp actually worked, I wouldn't put my self through that though.

have you measured with a multimeter the final resistance at the amp speaker terminals? What does it read? also, Do you have a voltage gauge connected at the amp power input terminals? What does it read with the engine turned on? Your readings should be 0.7-0.9 ohms for the first test and 13-15V for the second test.

You have 3K worth of amplifier and 6K worth of woofers, as a permanent solution I would suggest a single 6K half bridge amp. There is a user on here that recently got one those big boss, he had good electrical and yet the amp had to be returned due to a fault just days after installation, not a rare occurrence. If you want luck with those full bridge amps run strictly within 12.5-15V (as measured at the amp power terminals) not for a millisecond above or below that, run loads 1 ohm or above. Don't place the amp where there is significant vibration and/or bad ventilation.

Pretty hard to wire and setup such a big system, looks like you are running about 50KW of power, makes me wonder how you got lost on this one problem. You should have voltage monitoring near the amps and at the battery terminals, the first thing I would do is get the system to exhibit the fault while monitoring the voltages, if there is a sharp drop when the problem occurs is one thing BUT if no voltage drop is found when the system cuts out then you are looking to a different non power related fault. Fast voltage meters are important too, like the SMD-VM-1 when trying to catch transient faults.

If you are hearing distortion in your speaker it means that you have set your gains wrong or in some cases that you are letting through low frequencies generally you should hi-pass speakers and use a sub to take care of the lows. You should consider gtting a DD-1 or a mini scope to set your gains, you need to check if your head unit is generating distortion by itself many times is not that the amp is clipping. As for buying used, who knows how the last user mistreated the amp besides the scratch, not sure if amazon would take the time to test it, if buying used I would consider manufacturer refurbished stuff, if you go for that amp make sure amazon allows returns for that item.

Sundown has a design for the Zv6 (by the same designer) it is 2.5 net tuned to 32Hz and 35.75 square inches of port area and double layer 0.75 wood all around so for two subs it's 5 cubes net @32Hz with 71.5 square inches of port area, you just need to layout according to the vehicle you have. For a trunk car that would be subs firing back, port firing back or sideways.

That a very low voltage with your alt running, if you rev up the engine and you still see 13V or so then you are almost not charging the battery, resting voltage usually is 12.5 - 12.8V and the alt should be sourcing the 14.4 or so.

In any case they specify rated power @ 14.4V so your amp is not sourcing anywhere near rated power.

You don't run a 2500W amp (specially full bridge) on stock electrical, to test this connect a voltage gauge at your amp power terminals, turn up your volume, if you see that voltage drop as you turn the volume up there is for the most part your problem, the other thing is that every 3dB of gain you need twice the power so at 2000W you will be just barely louder than 1000W and to gainthe same 3dB at 2000W you will need 4000W crazy watts, that is why power is not your first option to get loud, cone area is.