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OH, that guy. haven't seen him out in a while.

1000 replies to this thread. Is it a build log or a chat room :bow28:

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So I took my headliner out to deaden....and then that turned into let's take the seats and carpet out and deaden the floor. That then changed into let's redo all the grounds. Let's also rerun the wire the way I want. Then I thought modifying the amp rack was a good idea....I should have stopped at the grounds. I thought shaving am inch from the amp rack would give me just enough clearance to sneak the other 3500 on top of the existing one and STILL fit under the port. I was very wrong :(

I was not paying attention but the transmission hump angles up toward the rear of the cab. It as already as shallow as it could ever have been. Soooooo, I have to run the amps in a different location and orientation. What I'm thinking is one amp" each side of the port, VERTICAL. I'll keep the power wire on the bottom side of the amp and the RCAs on top. I want to angle them slightly in, toward each other. The 100.4 can fit under the port and I'll angle it slightly up and forward. It will be a lot of frame work, but the end result should be worth it.

Pics of some stuff:

Gutted

20150211_185552.jpg

Ground block in the cab:.

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Outside on frame rail(I used a HEALTHY amount of Dielectric grease on the wire and from the block to the grand between the two:

20150212_003349.jpg

Pulled my headliner to redo:

20150211_102006.jpg

Relocated wire for the 4 channel:

20150212_003432.jpg

I picked up a cheap Harbor freight gun($13), to spray some of that Landau stuff that everyone swears by ;)

Im not the one you want to try to troll. Just a fyi for you.

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Stupid question but you didn't put dielectric grease underneath the ground block did you?

That being said a lot of people's definition of "music" is a clipped 30 hz sine wave with some 80 IQ knuckle head grunting about committing crimes and his genitals.

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I have a question, when I did my frame grounds people told me they were too close together but then lately I see multiple people adding the battery terminal thing under their vehicle and running grounds to it....with only 1 contact bolt plus the surface of the block itself I suppose. Is it enough? Who is right? I understand the ease of wire into the set screw and not wasting ring terminals.

Oh and they said they were too close and would cause noise or not be proper grounds and voltage front to back would be different (lack of grounds) i don't even fully remember I guess.

I thought some people ground each amp separately or no? Does it not matter? Sub amps separate than highs/mids amp? Your grounding everything to the battery bank CleanSierra?

looking to learn in your build log man, lol

EDIT: those are SHCA 2/0 OFC crimped with 16 ton crimper then electrical tape like a mofo because it's under the vehicle. I wire brushed the frame first to bare metal even though it doesn't look like it, and then sprayed bed liner over it all after done. These grounds have since been fully removed.

SAM_0784_zpsf6e8314b.jpg

2007 Chevy Tahoe (SOLD)

12 ~ FI Audio X series 10" w/BP option

2 ~ DC Audio 5.0K @0.67

3 ~ DC Audio 5.0K @1.0 

2 ~ PPI 3 way sets (not installed yet)

1 ~ RF T400-4, 1 ~ RF T600-2, 1 ~ RF T600-4

4 ~ CT Sounds 5.25" Strato comps  (rear fill only)

1 ~ XS Power D4800

1 ~ XS Power D3400

8 ~ XS Power XP3000

160 stock alt, Mechman 370 Elite, 185 DC Power

320+ Sq. Ft. Sound Deadener

Pioneer AVH-X5500BHS

Youtube: https://www.youtube.com/user/knfjdkghjudfhsgkjdhf/videos?sort=dd&view=0&shelf_id=0

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I'm not grounding everything to the battery bank, no. The bank had its own set of grounds. Yes, I'm sharing the grounds for ALL of the amps. I don't have noise and I don't presume this will introduce noise. Voltage takes the path of least resistance, I'm giving it options. In a full frame vehicle, we are spoiled to have such a thick, full running frame. Proper or not proper(opinions), this is how I'm rolling with it. If you were curious on the science portion, you could ask Audiofanaticz and see what he's heard or noticed with grounds locations. He would know better than I would with real world application.

Im not the one you want to try to troll. Just a fyi for you.

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I'm not grounding everything to the battery bank, no. The bank had its own set of grounds. Yes, I'm sharing the grounds for ALL of the amps. I don't have noise and I don't presume this will introduce noise. Voltage takes the path of least resistance, I'm giving it options. In a full frame vehicle, we are spoiled to have such a thick, full running frame. Proper or not proper(opinions), this is how I'm rolling with it. If you were curious on the science portion, you could ask Audiofanaticz and see what he's heard or noticed with grounds locations. He would know better than I would with real world application.

All good. Thanks for the reply. You can see my thoughts though huh, people tell me my separate grounds are too close, then I see people using battery terminals, like WTF! All good though. =)

Tuned!

2007 Chevy Tahoe (SOLD)

12 ~ FI Audio X series 10" w/BP option

2 ~ DC Audio 5.0K @0.67

3 ~ DC Audio 5.0K @1.0 

2 ~ PPI 3 way sets (not installed yet)

1 ~ RF T400-4, 1 ~ RF T600-2, 1 ~ RF T600-4

4 ~ CT Sounds 5.25" Strato comps  (rear fill only)

1 ~ XS Power D4800

1 ~ XS Power D3400

8 ~ XS Power XP3000

160 stock alt, Mechman 370 Elite, 185 DC Power

320+ Sq. Ft. Sound Deadener

Pioneer AVH-X5500BHS

Youtube: https://www.youtube.com/user/knfjdkghjudfhsgkjdhf/videos?sort=dd&view=0&shelf_id=0

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Might as well knock your vents out and cover them too.lol

How wide are your amps and length?

Are you trying to get it all the amps back there to show?

Amps are 26" long. This idea will put each amp on its own side and highs amp in the middle. It's more work than I wanted to do, but so has been EVERYTHING on this truck. It will be worth it when it's "done"

Im not the one you want to try to troll. Just a fyi for you.

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