YukonDCXL Posted February 22, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 22, 2014 From back batteries I ran 1/0awg ground up to front battery. For my big 3 I did run my 1/0awg ground through the circle sensor thing with the factory little wire that ran along side the factory ground. But anyways ran ground from battery to block and from engine block to frame and of course 0g from alt. to to battery. You can do the normal big 3 and add as many grounds as you want if you don't go through that sensor, OR you can go through that sensor and add NO grounds. Basically run a negative from alt, to front battery (through the sensor) then from front battery to rear battery(s) and ground amps to the rear batteries. No extra grounds if you go through the sensor. Otherwise your voltage will fluctuate. Personally I recommended adding all kinds of grounds like normal and not going through the sensor. For more info on this ask DC Power Kyle. ohhh I was told it would not charge right if you do not go though that sensor. What extra grounds would you add? I already have from negative to engine and from there to frame? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YukonDCXL Posted February 22, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 22, 2014 From back batteries I ran 1/0awg ground up to front battery. For my big 3 I did run my 1/0awg ground through the circle sensor thing with the factory little wire that ran along side the factory ground. But anyways ran ground from battery to block and from engine block to frame and of course 0g from alt. to to battery. You can do the normal big 3 and add as many grounds as you want if you don't go through that sensor, OR you can go through that sensor and add NO grounds. Basically run a negative from alt, to front battery (through the sensor) then from front battery to rear battery(s) and ground amps to the rear batteries. No extra grounds if you go through the sensor. Otherwise your voltage will fluctuate. Personally I recommended adding all kinds of grounds like normal and not going through the sensor. For more info on this ask DC Power Kyle. ohhh I was told it would not charge right if you do not go though that sensor. What extra grounds would you add? I already have from negative to engine and from there to frame? When I fist to the big 3 I did not notice that sensor and did not go through it and i believe it was still doing it then Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Karkov Posted February 22, 2014 Report Share Posted February 22, 2014 Well I would talk to DC Power Kyle here on the site before you do anything else. Maybe you have a different issue going on? I ran through the sensor and did the single ground in the whole vehicle and my voltage doesn't drop but this spring I wanna try doing it the other way and see what happens. When I ran through the sensor and added any extra grounds my voltage was all over the place. 2007 Chevy Tahoe (SOLD) 12 ~ FI Audio X series 10" w/BP option 2 ~ DC Audio 5.0K @0.67 3 ~ DC Audio 5.0K @1.0 2 ~ PPI 3 way sets (not installed yet) 1 ~ RF T400-4, 1 ~ RF T600-2, 1 ~ RF T600-4 4 ~ CT Sounds 5.25" Strato comps (rear fill only) 1 ~ XS Power D4800 1 ~ XS Power D3400 8 ~ XS Power XP3000 160 stock alt, Mechman 370 Elite, 185 DC Power 320+ Sq. Ft. Sound Deadener Pioneer AVH-X5500BHS Youtube: https://www.youtube.com/user/knfjdkghjudfhsgkjdhf/videos?sort=dd&view=0&shelf_id=0 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YukonDCXL Posted February 22, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 22, 2014 Well I would talk to DC Power Kyle here on the site before you do anything else. Maybe you have a different issue going on? I ran through the sensor and did the single ground in the whole vehicle and my voltage doesn't drop but this spring I wanna try doing it the other way and see what happens. When I ran through the sensor and added any extra grounds my voltage was all over the place. Okay, Thanks a lot Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ToNasty Posted February 22, 2014 Report Share Posted February 22, 2014 I believe that the alt is pcm controlled in your vehicle, and it shuts off when under certain conditions. I believe you can trick it into staying in charge mode by manually turning on the head lights or turning on tow haul mode. This is 100% correct. You have voltage drop but I guarantee you never drop under 12.8. 05-10 have the regulator. Your fine ***Super Sellers List***http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/25829-super-sellers-buyers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
get_us Posted February 22, 2014 Report Share Posted February 22, 2014 Yes that is PCM controlled. That is why I went with a dual alt kit and have a separate charging system for my system on my 2011 Tahoe. I believe that 2007 and up are PCM controlled. So I have to have two alternators to fix this? Well, i'm saying that you need two alts to fix this. I'm only saying that is why I went with the DC Power dual alt kit. I didn't want to have any issues and figured I would leave the stock charging system in place and let it run the truck like it was intended and have the second high output alt run my system. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alaskanzx5 Posted February 22, 2014 Report Share Posted February 22, 2014 Pcm controlled ALTs suck. Simple temp fix, if you turn on AC headlights or a good amount if the stock electrical components it should jump the voltage back up. Could always try disconnecting the extra engine grounds and only keep the ground going through the sensor. The reconnect them and try only having the extra grounds (disconnect the0 gauge going through the sensor leaving the stock sensor write connected). t1500bdcp 2 t2d4 15" 1 t600.4 1 t400.2 1 set p1 tweets singer alt, tons of wiring, smd vm-1, 80prs, back seat delete, still in the works, aiming for a 145-147 with the ability to play 25hz up to 50hz. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YukonDCXL Posted February 22, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 22, 2014 I believe that the alt is pcm controlled in your vehicle, and it shuts off when under certain conditions. I believe you can trick it into staying in charge mode by manually turning on the head lights or turning on tow haul mode. This is 100% correct. You have voltage drop but I guarantee you never drop under 12.8. 05-10 have the regulator. Your fine Yeah i think it is 12.8 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ToNasty Posted February 22, 2014 Report Share Posted February 22, 2014 I know it is. Mine is the same way ***Super Sellers List***http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/25829-super-sellers-buyers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ahmed Johnson Posted February 22, 2014 Report Share Posted February 22, 2014 I believe that the alt is pcm controlled in your vehicle, and it shuts off when under certain conditions. I believe you can trick it into staying in charge mode by manually turning on the head lights or turning on tow haul mode. I think I have the same thing. I've been leaving my heat on full blast for like 10 minutes to keep it up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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