bman8891 Posted November 16, 2015 Report Share Posted November 16, 2015 So im running 2 xs d6500's under the hood of my gas f250, one on each side of the truck. The truck came factory with one battery. So far I've done: Battery A (stock location) - to ground 1 Engine block to ground 1 Battery A - to battery B - Battery B - to ground 2 Battery A + to battery B+ (fused) Stock alt wire to battery A (4 awg) Im planning on doing alt to battery B so each battery will be connected to the alt but one will have 1/0 and the other will have 4 awg. Is this acceptable? Im sure Battery B Will charge first but both batteries are also connected so its a big triangle loop. Also I want to run a + back to the amp only and ground the amp to a seat bolt. (Saz 3500d @ .5 ohm) think thats okay? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Broke_Audio_Addict Posted November 16, 2015 Report Share Posted November 16, 2015 You have a full frame, use it to ground your amps. You forgot alt casing to ground. That being said a lot of people's definition of "music" is a clipped 30 hz sine wave with some 80 IQ knuckle head grunting about committing crimes and his genitals. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gckless Posted November 16, 2015 Report Share Posted November 16, 2015 You have a full frame, use it to ground your amps. You forgot alt casing to ground. Engine block, same thing. Do you think there's enough resistance between your alt case and your engine block to warrant another specifically to the alt case? This guy has more wire in just under-hood grounds than most do in their whole car lol. "Clipping" is the biggest forum boner now. It's like witchcraft... it automatically explains just about everything people don't understand. My build log: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/200295-gckless-2011-chevrolet-impala/ High resolution photos: Gilbert Kless Photography Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Broke_Audio_Addict Posted November 16, 2015 Report Share Posted November 16, 2015 Yes, I do. That being said a lot of people's definition of "music" is a clipped 30 hz sine wave with some 80 IQ knuckle head grunting about committing crimes and his genitals. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hdorre Posted November 16, 2015 Report Share Posted November 16, 2015 Engine block, same thing. On 5/8/2011 at 7:38 PM, Kranny said: On 5/8/2011 at 7:35 PM, 'Maxim' said: It hurts me inside when I read stuff like this and remember you're 15 LMFAO so true Mitsubishi 3000GT (Old Build) Headunit: Pioneer 80PRS Frontstage: (2) McLaren Audio MLT-2 Tweeters & (4) PRV Audio MR Series Neo 6.5" Mids Substage: 4 15" Hybrid Subs - Tantric Motors & Sundown Softies Amps: Banda 2.4D Amp (Tweets), American Bass VFL 350.4 (Mids), and (2) Ampere 3800s Electrical :Singer 260A Alt & JY Power Lithium 2005 Chevy Colorado Ext Cab Headunit: Pioneer 80PRS Frontstage: 4 PRV 700Ti Tweets & 6 10" Delta Mids on 3000wrms Substage: 6 Fi BTL 18s in a 4th Order Walkthrough on 3 Wolfram 4500s Electrical: Singer "390" and JY Power My Official Feedback Thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bman8891 Posted November 16, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 16, 2015 You have a full frame, use it to ground your amps. You forgot alt casing to ground. Where I grounded to the block is about 4" from alt casing. I can run a short wire to ground block to casing no problem thanks. My primary concern is whether i need a full length neg run to the amp? My plan was to ground amp to seat bolt (big solid bolt in floor) and then under the truck do the underside of that same bolt to the frame. Also, do I need to run + from alt to BOTH batteries? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Schenk Posted November 16, 2015 Report Share Posted November 16, 2015 I wouldn't ground to seat bolts they our a shitty ground especially if you have a frame. Run amp ground straight to frame. Or if you our going to have a battery back there ground amp to battery battery to frame. I wouldn't waste the wire to to a negative run to the back but that's me. On 3/28/2014 at 4:22 PM, KyLar96 said: Its all about the music anyway..... Do a proper install, something your happy with, Fuck everyone else...... improve in time, where you can..... its not rocket science... Tiburon build //www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/174059-97-hyundai-tiburon-build-from-ramming-to-slamming-slow-5k-build/ 2000 Mountaineer build http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/186736-2000-mountaineer-build-from-ramming-to-slamming-part-iislow-5k-builddc-audio-americanbassxspowersingerarcaudiostingershcavideo-on-pg7/ 2000 Mercury Mountaineer: Electrical:Singer 360 hairpin powdercoated white alt, Big 4 double run 1/0 SHCA OFC, 4 runs 1/0 OFC SHCA, limitless 70ah, HU: Pioneer deh80prs interiors: Skar sk85.4 on sb acoustics neo dome tweeters 2 Mmats sq4100s on 4 silver flute 8s(4ohm) SUB Stage: 3 DC5K [email protected] on 6 ascendant audio mayhem 12s d1.4s fully loaded Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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