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So im supposed to be installing my friends system in his taurus ...this has probably gotta be the most difficult car to install some aftermarket shit in. With his new faceplate for the new deck .. it came with some long ass wires that are supposed to be run to the back for a cd changer or factory amp or something (from what i could understand on crutchfield).

What im asking is do those wires need to be ran if we're doing an aftermarket amp? and running RCAs

If his headunit only has one set of RCA outputs ... and we are doing a sub and mids/highs amp ... do we just run a pair of Y splitters to the 2 amps?

(some comments on this video helped)

http://www.crutchfield.com/p_142F134030/Fo...taurus+dash+kit (what he ordered)

312tzpu.png

My 02 Accord Wall Build

2 Sundown Audio Nightshade V1 18s --- 1 SAZ 3500

Sundown Audio 100.4 --- 4 Sundown Audio Neo-Pro 8s

Sundown Audio 125.2 --- 2 Morel MD-12 Tweeters , 2 Selenium ST-200 Tweeters

DC Power 270xp --- 4 XS Power D1200s | 1 D5100R

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So im supposed to be installing my friends system in his taurus ...this has probably gotta be the most difficult car to install some aftermarket shit in. With his new faceplate for the new deck .. it came with some long ass wires that are supposed to be run to the back for a cd changer or factory amp or something (from what i could understand on crutchfield).

What im asking is do those wires need to be ran if we're doing an aftermarket amp? and running RCAs

If his headunit only has one set of RCA outputs ... and we are doing a sub and mids/highs amp ... do we just run a pair of Y splitters to the 2 amps?

(some comments on this video helped)

http://www.crutchfield.com/p_142F134030/Fo...taurus+dash+kit (what he ordered)

IIRC the harness that runs to the back into the trunk is for if your gonna use the stock wires for the mids/highs. Main reason for the harness is because the rear speaker wires dont run up to the front of the car. As far as the amps just go from the headunit to the sub amp then pass through to the mids/high amp I think.

* Eclipse CD3200 with PAC SWI-CAN2 and SW-ECL2 Steering Wheel Controls Interface
* Pioneer D-Series Mids and Highs ( Fronts: TS-D1702C; Rears; TS-D1702R and Dash; TS-D1002R )
* Rockford Fosgate PBR300X4 ( Mids and Highs Amp )
* DC 3.5k with Dual Inputs; Custom Plexiglass Backing ( Sub Amp )
* Rockford Fosgate Balanced Line Driver

* One FULLY LOADED ~ 10" DC m2 XL
* Custom Built Carpeted Ported Box Tuned to 32hz. Single Chamber With Volume of 1.44618³ ft ; 1.13216³ ft After Displacement
* Custom Built Carpeted Trunk Wall with Added Fans for Amplifier Cooling
* MechMan 240a High Output Alternator

* KnuKonceptz Krystal Kable RCA Cables
* Upgraded Electrical With 1/0 KnuKonceptz Kolossus Fleks Kable and 1/0 Sky High Car Audio Cable
* Five Exide Orbital ORB34M Marine 12 Volt Batteries
* PowerMaster XS D3100 12 Volt Battery

My 2008 Chrysler 300 Limited - SuperCharged 3.5L V6 - UBL

My Old 2005 Ford Taurus - CarDomain - Vehicle Was Sold

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better hope you dont have push button hvac controls or you're sol, something that crutchfield doesnt mention. only the version with the 3 knobs can switch the radio out, the push button one loses like the entire hvac system

Build: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/ind...hl=avalon+build

monster/rockford/kicker/stinger cables, pioneer source, jbl highs/amps, kinetik/shuriken batts, iraggi alt, dei security, dc subs(atleast for now)

Team DC

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better hope you dont have push button hvac controls or you're sol, something that crutchfield doesnt mention. only the version with the 3 knobs can switch the radio out, the push button one loses like the entire hvac system

If you got electronic climate controls your not really sol you just gotta to mount the headunit somewhere else. Altho it is a pita if u don't have manual cliamte controls... which i beleive he does so he should be good.

* Eclipse CD3200 with PAC SWI-CAN2 and SW-ECL2 Steering Wheel Controls Interface
* Pioneer D-Series Mids and Highs ( Fronts: TS-D1702C; Rears; TS-D1702R and Dash; TS-D1002R )
* Rockford Fosgate PBR300X4 ( Mids and Highs Amp )
* DC 3.5k with Dual Inputs; Custom Plexiglass Backing ( Sub Amp )
* Rockford Fosgate Balanced Line Driver

* One FULLY LOADED ~ 10" DC m2 XL
* Custom Built Carpeted Ported Box Tuned to 32hz. Single Chamber With Volume of 1.44618³ ft ; 1.13216³ ft After Displacement
* Custom Built Carpeted Trunk Wall with Added Fans for Amplifier Cooling
* MechMan 240a High Output Alternator

* KnuKonceptz Krystal Kable RCA Cables
* Upgraded Electrical With 1/0 KnuKonceptz Kolossus Fleks Kable and 1/0 Sky High Car Audio Cable
* Five Exide Orbital ORB34M Marine 12 Volt Batteries
* PowerMaster XS D3100 12 Volt Battery

My 2008 Chrysler 300 Limited - SuperCharged 3.5L V6 - UBL

My Old 2005 Ford Taurus - CarDomain - Vehicle Was Sold

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But if we are adding amps to the car theres no need for that long bundle of wires correct?

312tzpu.png

My 02 Accord Wall Build

2 Sundown Audio Nightshade V1 18s --- 1 SAZ 3500

Sundown Audio 100.4 --- 4 Sundown Audio Neo-Pro 8s

Sundown Audio 125.2 --- 2 Morel MD-12 Tweeters , 2 Selenium ST-200 Tweeters

DC Power 270xp --- 4 XS Power D1200s | 1 D5100R

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I own a Taurus, and so does my dad (96 and 02), doen head units in both, I am sure you can find a way to get away without running the wires, but dude, its easy, it comes with the fit kit you have to buy anyhow (unless you are custom fabbing) and it is no worse than running a power wire, ou can do it, just keep it away from your amp power wire haha

-Mark

Host of "CarAudioFabrication" - YouTube Car Audio Tutorial Channel

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Check out my forum section here on SMD for my builds and tutorial videos!

Subscribe on YouTube: http://www.youtube.com/CarAudioFabrication

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